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Little Bit of Nothing Update

Put off making a post lately because I've done nothing new.  Been working on a Crosman 22XX build using a 2260 rifle gas tube.  Had to make a couple pieces parts, but nothing we haven't shown before.











Here's the assembled pistol.  I'd like to make a rear sight and lose the red dot on this one.















Was a pretty quick build.  Painted some stock 2240 grips with truck bed liner, had to make the bolt handle...





























a rear cap for the gas tube...





























added a trigger stop...





























cut down a 2260 (.22cal) rifle barrel and crowned...   There was some other stuff like a new hammer spring, bolt hold open magnet, trigger job...  Nothing really out of the ordinary.















Cut these many months ago then promptly put them aside after I'd had a bad allergic reaction while working with a different piece of Bolivian rosewood for a knife handle.  These were cut from the remnants of the wood left over from the Crosman 150 grip project.  I had no issue working with that board, so, I'm unsure if I'm sensitized to rosewood in general--or if it was just an odd piece.  Hopefully, I'll be able to finish these, though I may do more carving rather than sanding to shape.

So, there's a rear sight project, probably a front sight to match, a breech, the grips...  I made a tentative project list the other day and there must have been two dozen projects on it.  We'll see what rises to the top.

Quick Update on the Sterling

Dissatisfied with the 570 fps the Sterling was making, I tore the gun down yet again.
















At least the compression tube can be disassmbled from the gun after removing only six bolts.















No damage to the face of the piston after over one hundred shots, so that's the good news.















No pics, but while I had the gun apart, I checked the bolt o-ring, but it was fine.  The next largest o-ring I had on hand didn't fit into the breech anyway.













Went through the box of mainsprings and found a similar spring that was about 0.750" longer.  Same OD, same ID.  I'll probably end up ordering a new higher quality spring from Air Rifle Headquarters.  The gun went back together and velocity increased to 600 fps for about twenty shots then dropped off to 580.   A drop of oil on the sides of the transfer port o-ring showed a leak like a breaching whale.  I'm getting bored with all the gun's idiosyncrasies, I stripped the compression tube again (six bolts!) and degreased the seats for the o-ring seal with acetone.  Glued the o-ring into place with a cyanoacrylate.  With the port sealed, velocity climbed to a high of 620 with the .20 cal H&N wadcutter. Another hundred shots and the velocity has stabilized at 615.

The washer in the compression tube is certainly disrupting the airflow, not to mention the square-shaped channel of the air transfer slot transitioning to round then making that ninety degree turn inside the bolt nose.  Way too much turbulence in the original design.  So, a replacement spring seems like potentially the most bang for the buck in terms of effort.  When (if?) I strip the gun again after sourcing a different spring, I'll also try a different piston seal.  I've got four more on order.

Probably something different next time around.  Need a break from this one for a while.

Sterling in Purgatory

With the washer epoxied into the compression tube, I turned my attention to the trigger mechanism. 
















Pushed out the forward pivot pin and pulled the sear out.


















Counterbore for the spring.















Removed the trigger return spring.  It's exactly the same spring used on the sear.















To remove the trigger, the safety lever must be removed first.  A very small set of external snap ring pliers is required.















Snap ring removed, and the safety's pivot and lever are pulled out.  The sheet metal safety has small indentations for the detent ball.  The ball is visible in the center of the trigger pivot pin.















Trigger pivot pin is hollow to house a small spring and ball bearing.


















Like so.















Trigger/sear orientation--cocked.  Note the overlap on surfaces.  These are the locations to polish and lube to smooth the pull.















Trigger pulled, microseconds before the rifle fires.
















Sear in fired position.  Aside from polishing contact surfaces, I also cut a couple coils off the trigger return spring.



















I fall into the "cross hatched" category for compression tubes.  A quick pass with a Brush Research Flex-Hone finished the inside of the tube beautifully.  Inexpensive at about $20.

















Thin coat of moly on the piston and sides of the seal.















Mainspring got a coat of a viscous red synthetic grease.  Added a rotation washer to the base of the spring guide and reassembled the compression tube.  No pics, it was simply a reversal of the steps here.















While the bolt was still on the bench, it seemed like a good time to clean the barrel with J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaner.















Thin coat of silicone grease on the bolt o-ring...
















and the transfer port o-ring.















Made sure the air passage in the bolt lined up when the handle is in the closed position.















Don't forget the setscrew to lock the handle in place.





























The entire upper unit needs to be assembled before attaching the compression tube.

























Dropped the action back into the stock, fired off about 40 shots then set up the chronograph.  With a .20 cal H&N wadcutter, the Sterling was doing a smooth and consistent 570 fps.  Great.  I was hoping for at least another hundred fps.  Dejectedly, I removed the compression tube again and pulled the mainspring and piston.  Removed all the tacky red grease and burnished the spring with copper anti-seize.  Next, I sized the piston seal down a few more thousandths for a looser fit in the compression tube.  Reassembled and sent more shots downrange to settle things in.  Across the chrony, the rifle was again still shooting that same 570 fps.  Some of the old reference material gave specs for the .20 cal as 640 fps, so 570 seems way too slow. But, looking around, I can't find any real world .20 cal Sterling numbers to compare against.

There is perhaps still some efficiency to be gained by revisiting the transfer port and sleeving it to decrease volume and dead space.  Possibly a tighter fitting o-ring on the bolt, or a different piston seal, too. 

I'm not a velocity chaser, but find this is a bit too slow given the sheer size of the rifle.  Maybe that's why it didn't fare well in the marketplace. 

I think I'll pull the modified piston and install the original, unaltered piston from the .22 cal rifle just to get some numbers from a box stock component.  Most likely, the only real gains will come from trying some different mainsprings.

We'll see what pans out.

"Fixing" the Sterling's Compression Tube

Been ruminating about the transfer port in the Sterling for a few days now. 
















Those sharp-edges worried me.  It looked like it could/would eat the new piston seal within a few shots.  Thought about making an insert to fill in near the edge, but it seemed like difficult work considering it's so deep in the tube.















This 1" stainless steel washer should do the trick, but it's just a couple thousandths too large in diameter to fit into the compression tube. 















Mounted it on a mandrel and touched the edge with a mill file.  In about two seconds, it was sized.














 
The washer barely drops to the bottom of the tube.  (OK, it's technically the front of the tube, but you get the idea.) 















Washer is so thin so there won't be any appreciable change in compression stroke.















Used a good degreaser to thoroughly clean the inside of the tube. 















Cut a piece of aluminum tube to fit inside the length of the tube when the end cap is threaded down. 















The aluminum tube will push and hold the washer against the front of the tube as the J-B Weld epoxy sets up.  There's really not another way to secure the washer in place--at least, none that I could envision.















Not using the quick-set version.   Want the longer set-up time so I don't have to rush--as well as the higher strength. 















A plastic spacer wrapped near the end of a 3/16" steel rod allowed me to get down to the bottom of the tube without the epoxy covered end touching the inside wall.















Washer dropped into place and the rod and end cap installed.  I cleaned the excess epoxy from the transfer port and set it aside.  I'll look at this again in about twenty-four hours.  In the mean time, I'll clean the barrel and degrease the mainspring.  The stock could probably stand another coat of oil, too.

Reassembly should happen in another day or two.  Please check back.  I hope it all works.

Repairing the Damaged Sterling Piston

Slowly bringing the .20 caliber Sterling back to life.   Want to salvage the original damaged piston by reworking it to a different seal configuration.  I don't see much point in using the spare undamaged piston, as the seals aren't just difficult to obtain--they're impossible.  Couldn't warm up to that center-mounted rubber bumper, either.















Started by measuring the ID of the compression tube.  It's essentially a 1" bore.  Next, I went through my various seals.   The criteria:  Obviously fit to the tube was foremost, followed by availability, and to some extent, design.  I wanted the seal to have a relatively thick band near the edge for durability, as I'm concerned about the deep transfer port groove in the front of the Sterling's compression chamber.  Lastly, the seal had to be readily adaptable to the damaged piston.  Picked a spare seal I'd obtained from Crosman to fit my Remington Summit.  It's Crosman's part # B18-04-1A.  I think it was about $4.  (2/3/2012 correction:they cost $1.10) The piston seal requires a 60 degree (included) angle cone for attachment.  I'll get to that a bit later.















The head of the piston is brazed into the front end of the tube.  There's about half an inch of steel inside the tube, leaving lots of metal to work with.   Trued up the piston in a 4-jaw chuck on the Taig.  There's too much overhang here...















Added the steady rest, and started cutting off the damaged grooves.















At the last moment, I elected to leave a shoulder on the front of the piston.  Eventually, I turned this shoulder down to about 0.503" so a steel washer would press fit into place.  Thought this would provide some sort of protection for the actual front of the piston body.















With the shoulder finished, I spotted for a hole with a center drill.















Through-drilled with a #20 bit.















Tapped the hole M5 x 0.8mm.















Broke the edge with a countersink to finish the piston head.















Now, I need a 60 degree cone to mount that seal to the front of the piston.  Mounted the compound crosslide to the Taig set it to 30 degrees.  I cut this taper on a scrap of aluminum rod then realized I was going the wrong direction.  This would be too difficult to do additional machine work to the wide end of the cone...















Flipped the scrap in the jaws and readjusted the compound.  We'll call it -30 degrees.  Cut the cone in reverse.  Remember that the larger end is the front...















Here's where I eyeball everything,  I faced down the end until it just fit into the piston seal.















Through drilled to clear the M5 screw.















Countersunk to match the angle of the M5 flat head.  Cut until the head fit just below flush.















The rear of the seal has a 0.50" hole, so the rear of the cone must match that diameter.















A little layout fluid and some easy caliper work marked 0.500".  Cut just to the line with a parting tool.   














The piston, black steel washer, aluminum cone adapter, seal and bolt.





























Couldn't have asked for a better fit.















Here it is above the spare stock piston.  Getting close, but I'm not quite ready to put the gun back together yet.

Check back soon.

 

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Hi Mike,thanks for the warm welcome,boy their sure is alot to look at and read on this sight.

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HELP!!

Posted by Ick Obeck on April 9, 2012 at 9:42am 0 Comments

Ok guys, so I got a Titan GP a while ago, and it seemed to work fine at first. It's been a few months now, and I think that there is something wrong with the piston seals, or the piston itself. It seems that the gun loses power sometimes and doesn't other times. It will go from shooting dead on, to shooting a foot low for a while( at 25-30 yds). The gun even sounds different on some shots. It is not scope, I've tried three, and its not me, because it will shoot consistent groups that are…

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Posted by Ick Obeck on February 25, 2012 at 9:52pm 1 Comment

Well, I went to a gun show this weekend and they had a great deal on some interesting splatter targets that I couldn't resist trying my airguns on. I have three more targets to use and they are all of different zombies. I will post those as I shoot them.

Pellet Test

Posted by Ick Obeck on February 15, 2012 at 8:07pm 2 Comments

I decided to try a little test with two of my favorite pellets. In this test I used Crosman Destroyer EX's and Crosman Pointed pellets. I used a Crossman Quest 1000x in 177 cal for both pellets. I shot a few pellets of each type into some modeling clay that I formed into a nice block to see what the pellets do when the hit a dense material and to see what kind of holes they make. I found out that the pointed pellets penetrated much further as expected, but the Destroyers did make larger…

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Moving out to County..no WWW there.

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Well Fellas, seems there is no internet out in the county. may try to get DLS thru phone but who knows when i post here again.I appreciate all yall for participating in this forum with us. see you laters.

New Gun

Posted by Ick Obeck on January 16, 2012 at 7:02pm 11 Comments

Ok, thinking about geting a new gun soon, I've been looking around, and I want a .22 cal. I am looking at either the Benjamin Discovery, or the Crosman Nitro Venum Dusk. As of now I am leaning toward the Nitro Venum because it costs about half of the Benjamin( hand pump combo). I wanted to know what you guys think? What are your thoughts on each?

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I found this gun today, and I really don't know anything about it. It is a chinese gun, and has a seal( animal) with a ball on its nose engraved on the spring housing. If anyone knows what it is, info would be great. Everything written on it is in chinese so I have no clue.…

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    VarmintAir's RSS Airgun Hunting Blog

    Cobra Venom Air Pistol Breech

    Cobra Venom Breech for the 2240 air pistol features an improved bolt ten shot breech design by Cobra Venom Shop for easier cocking and loading. This 10 shot breech has been eight months in the making.
    This a product test video the Breech will be powder coated black.
    The Breech worked flawlessly and is almost complete



    The Cobra Airguns Venom breech you see in the video was designed for the Benjamin Discovery rifle where you would want the bolt on the right. But for test reasons like travel the pistol is easer to put in a case, uninstalled and reinstalled after testing. That is why we put it on a pistol. We should have some this weekend and will do another video.
    They are not available yet because we do want to use you as the test pilot. The Venom breech has well over 1000 shoots put though it and we are trying to make it fail and it has not Customers have come in to the shop and after testing it ordered the venom breech on the spot. We will not put the bolt slot on each side because this will leave the side that is not being used open to the elements. And letting dirt and Foreign material into the breech. The breech will be sold in two ways pistol where the bolt will be on left And for the Benjamin Discovery, Crosman 2260 and 2250 air rifles where the bolt will be on the right like on the video
    If you are left handed and want it for a pistol buy the rifle breech. The Cobra venom Breech will come in .177 and .22 calibers soon. The Venom breech will not need any machining of the barrel or the breech.
    The ports match the Crosman 2240, Benjamin Discovery, Crosman 2260 and 2250 The breech ports are the same on the Crosman 1377 but the tube size is smaller it will fit but will be a little over sized. We will make one for the 1377 soon


    Dave CAG


    Cobra Airguns

    http://www.airgunsbbguns.com/air_guns_for_sale_s/386.htm

    Long Island Field Target

    http://www.airgunsbbguns.com/Field_Target_s/359.htm

    Sumatra Carbine .22 carbine Review







    Handling
    The first thing you notice as you pick up an shoulder the Sumatra carbine for the first time, is that it is very well balanced and snugs up nicely and naturally. Your hand slips loosely into the lever and the gun holds steady almost effortlessly. One begins to picture taking fast running game on the fly and working that lever like a true western rifleman. This gun was designed ergonometricly which cannot be said about all air rifles. The Sumatra is designed for right or left handed shooters and one of the most notable observations about this gun is that everyone I have let try it has shot well with it immediately. There is a very low learning curve to get the feel of it. In addition, it also passed my spot shooting test. Spot shooting is done with both eyes open and focused on the target. The gun performed amazingly well and I was able to shoot quarter sized groups from a standing position.
    What does that mean? It means the stock and barrel are aligned with a natural shooting position. I have a very expensive German gun that could never do that!!

    Finish and craftsmanship
    The Sumatra is built surprisingly well for the low purchase price. I was very happy when I first opened the box. The blueing is smooth. The metal parts work together firmly and the finish on the stock and butt are simple and even. I could not find any flaws with mine. Keep in mind that I do not purchase guns to hang on the wall. I expect them to look reasonably well and shoot awesome. I know I have already put a few dings in the stock and I am sure there will be a few scratches over the years but that is the life of a field gun.




    Function
    The Sumatra carbine is built on a very simple premise and that is to shoot heavy pellets very fast and very accurately. The six shot rotary magazine loads very quickly and simply snaps into the gun with the lever fully open. The Sumatra’s rotary magazine will take any .22 cal pellet on the market with no adjustment. A shooter can squeeze off six shots as fast as he can work the lever and pull the trigger. The trigger is somewhat adjustable although it will remain a “Crisp” pull at the lowest setting.



    The Gun carries a nice size air chamber approximately 290cc under the barrel. This is filled to 3000psi using a scuba tank or high pressure air pump. At the end of the lower air chamber a rotating dust cup reveals the air fill port which the fill probe fits into.

    I have had no problems with the well over 300 fills I have put into my gun. One question I often receive about this gun is how many shots do you get? I keep the gun set to shoot a little lower than maximum power and it seems to shoot 3 magazine or 18 shots without a drop in point of impact. That is a perfect match for field hunting and with the Sumatra you really need only one shot to take game to the size of a large raccoon.

    Adjustable power
    The adjustable power wheel is a really nice feature on the gun and it is located on the underside of the receiver. The wheel will adjust the power of the gun from almost zero to 1200 fps. Next to the power wheel is a compact PSI gauge which is a fantastic feature to have on a PCP rifle. However, the Sumatra gauge does not read accurately and a 3000psi fill may read 1000psi. The gauge works, it’s just that the numbers inside of it are not calibrated properly. So once you know your gun you can tell from the position of the needle whether or not you have a full fill or it is time for a refill.


    Factory peep sight
    The last feature I should discuss is the factory peep sight. This is the worst rear sight I have ever used and it would require a bit of drilling to actually be able to see through it. I think it would have worked fine as the front adjustable sight is built well and adjusts easily.



    However, I had intended to drop a scope on this gun so I didn’t bother. I mounted a Bushnell banner 3x9x50 on the gun because I had one laying around. I used standard mounts and it works fantastic but I plan on switching it out for a compact Leapers mildot at some point.

    Accuracy and shooting
    The most surprising thing about the Sumatra is that it will shoot almost any pellet accurately. I have tried Eun Jins, Crosman Premiers, Predators, Kodiaks and Crow Magnums. All but the Crow Magnums shot perfectly and you can expect quarter sized groups at fifty yards although I regularly take game out to 80 yards with it.

    I spent some time using the heavy 30 grain Eun Jins and I absolutely love them for hunting. They hit very hard and accurately although it takes a lot of air to push them out straight for the long shots and I found myself using Kentucky windage for the 90 yard shots. I have since switched back to Kodiaks for all game smaller than a fox. The Kodiaks shoot exactly the same as the Eun Jins only they shoot flatter and farther and you shouldn’t require any scope adjustment between the two. At a moderate power setting the Kodiaks should stay fairly flat out to 70 yds.

    Hunting
    This is where the Sumatra Carbine shines. It is a hunting rifle made for field use. Its short compact build makes it perfect for maneuvering through brush and vines and almost disappears when tucked into the hunter’s body. I have taken many coons, a few foxes, rabbits, squirrels, pigeons etc. with this gun. If you hit something with the Sumatra the extra power is really unforgiving and even if your shot is off a bit you can expect deep penetration and massive damage.
    I went coon hunting with a friend of mine and he was carrying a very nice Logun. We came across a couple of coons and when he saw me take a large coon with the Sumatra he said about his gun, “I have to get one of those, my gun is just a toy compared to it”. In many ways he is right. The Sumatra will handle the full range of airgun hunting from pesky starlings to Foxes and coons.


    I had an experience while doing some pest control on a farm. I came across four coons at a feeder. They were all about 30 yards out and I took careful aim at the one closest to the woods. I dropped him cold then in the confusion I dropped the next one before he was aware of what was happening. The third coon fell as it darted for the tree line. Number four had taken a few wrong steps in the wrong direction when the commotion started and now he was headed up a tree. I dropped him midway up his climb. It was over in 6 or 7 seconds and I still had 2 rounds left in the gun. I took a total of 10 coons that night and the gun worked flawlessly. Oh, and I also took a running possum at 80 yards on the same night. You might say I am a great shot but I would contend that a good shooting team consists of the shooter and his rifle and both need to be able to do their part reliably.

    The Sumatra is a little loud for regular back yard use. However, I have shot it many times with the power dialed way down and it is barely audible. At higher power you are going to get a fairly loud “Crack”.


    Recommendations
    If you are going to hunt with an airgun or you are looking for your first PCP then the Sumatra is for you. It is at the lower end of the Price scale and offers some great features. I guarantee you will love its simplicity, power and handling. The Sumatra carbine is to airgun hunting what the Winchester was to the old west. One gun for all occasions.


    Factory Specifications

    Model Cal. .22 Sumatra Carbine .22
    Total Wt. Overall Length Velocity fps Muzzle Energy Cocking Method Cocking Effort Power Plant


    7.0 lb
    35.5" long

    Lever Action
    * New fully adjustable power
    62 fpe
    * quick fill adapter,
    * Threaded Barrel
    (10 x 1mm)
    * Includes: 2 magazines,

    * Installed scope rail
    * Faster shut off for hand pumps
    * 5/8" ctc at 50 yards using
    Eun Jin pellets
    * Adjustable 2-Stage Trigger

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